Archive for the ‘design’ category

Open Pollinated and Heirloom Variety Vegetable Seeds

January 22nd, 2012

Over the past few years there is a large movement towards growing your own fruits, vegetables and herbs from seeds. The top three reasons people gave in a recent study conducted by the National Gardening Association, were to put fresh produce on the table, save some money and to know that what they were growing was safe.

Who can argue about all three reasons? Can there be anything in the store that is fresher than walking out of your back door, picking a tomato off the vine and then eating it right at that moment? I don’t believe so. As for saving money, the cost of a single vegetable seed is less than a hundredth of a penny. Yes that is one, one hundredth of a penny. Now of course you still need to water and tend to the plant, but in a recent USDA study, one tomato seed can produce over $50 worth of tomatoes. That’s a pretty good return.

When it comes to the safety of your vegetables, growing your own puts you in control of it. Unlike produce in stores, that are harvested in places you didn’t even know existed, you get control what goes into your soil and whether or not you want to treat your plants with a fertilizer. In other words, you make all of the decisions. That’s freedom to me.

This surge, and for these reasons, has lead to another push toward something. A variety of seeds that make vegetable gardeners feel safe when they plant them. They are open pollinated and heirloom varieties. Most of the time they can go hand in hand, but that is not always the case.

Open pollinated seeds are ones that have pollinated naturally. This type of pollination occurs when something helps pollinate the plants without “human” intervention. For example, the wind could be a source of pollination (this is also called Abiotic pollination), or some organism, such as a bee (Biotic pollination). The fruit of seeds that have been open pollinated will vary in size and shape. Unlike what you see in the store, all of your tomatoes won’t be the same bright red color or shape, but the ones from your garden will taste a heck of a lot better. A huge benefit of using seeds that are open pollinated is that you can save seeds from the fruit of the plants that you grow and get the same plant variety the following season (after you have dried out the seeds). That leads us to heirloom.

As the name heirloom implies, it is simply a variety that has been passed down from one generation to the next. As you can see, open pollinated and heirloom can go hand in hand, however there are times when many gardeners hand pollinate their plants if it seems that natural open methods simply aren’t working. That doesn’t mean you can’t pass down the seeds from your heirlooms, it just means they weren’t open pollinated.

As a side note there are two terms that get thrown in this mix that many new vegetable gardeners misunderstand. Open pollinated heirloom variety does not equate to organic. For a seed to be organic it has to meet the criteria of the USDA’s National Organic Program guidelines. Furthermore, a hybrid vegetable does not mean that a plant has been genetically modified. A hybrid is a cross between two plants to produce an offspring that has characteristics of both the parent plants. However the seeds of a hybrid child (referred to as F1) will not necessarily produce the same exact plant from which it came.

Home Gardening and Landscaping – Working With Hard Clay Soil

September 13th, 2011

One of the biggest problems facing gardeners living with indigenous clay soil as they work to beautify their homes’ landscaping and gardens is the soil’s natural characteristics. Definitely a challenge to work but the soil’s obstacles can be conquered.

Clay presents several challenges to good plant growth. Just as a good foundation is the base of a solidly built home, so does soil provide the foundation for the growth, appearance, and health of plants.

Clay soil is heavily burdened by its innate characteristics. Clay soil is hard, sticky,difficult to work, especially vulnerable to water saturation and poor drainage. However, with all its short comings, clay soil has a strong redeeming quality, it is nutrient rich. So the landscaping and garden enthusiasts simply must decide a process to overcome its weaknesses, of which there are many, and accent its positive, a naturally nutrient rich composition.

It seems everyone has a theory, a type of “magic bullet” that will solve the soil’s problems and create a workable medium for plants. Oddly enough their unique solution is the practical remedy. A specific chemical additive, a certain time of the year, no offense intended to the farmer’s almanac, or a study that scientifically proves the only viable process. Please allow a slight diversion from the garden and landscaping world for a moment as you will be provided a recent historical analogy. During our nation’s recent economic downturn, experts all over the country were trying to convince the American public that the “old” theory of ” buy and hold quality investments” was outdated and a true dinosaur. The Dow dropped to the 7000 level and these economic evangelists were in their element. “Use my method and you will be assured long-term success. “Act quickly and avoid the inevitable future drop.” Well, the Dow came back and those trumping a miracle cure are relegated to the fringes of acceptable economic practices. But not to worry, they will again surface during the next downturn and be just as enthusiastic as ever. So it is with the clay soil. The good news is you will not invest your life’s savings, a little sweat and labor to be sure but the dividends you will earn will be worth the effort.

A couple of simple tests can determine the necessity to prepare the soil. One thing is for sure, if you live in an area populated with clay soil you can be assured it is compacted,poorly aerated, and has drainage issues. But, if you must, just to convince yourself, by all means perform a test for proper soil drainage. First pick up a hand full of dirt and squeeze firmly. Should it fall apart easily the soil is probably good for planting. Another simple test. Dig a hole 6 inches deep fill with water allowing it to drain. Refill again tracking the drainage time. If more than 8 hours your soil is retaining too much water. The most successful method to determine the need for water is a simple inexpensive, and accurate soil tester which may be purchased from a green house supplier. Soggy soil will produce poor plant growth. The symptoms are very easy to spot. Poor plant appearance, droopy leaves or poor production of blooms or fruit.

Now that your curiosity is satisfied and you have proven to yourself what you really already knew begin preparing the soil for planting. The steps of the process are:

1) Remove existing vegetation.

2) Till the soil to 8 – 12 inch depth.

3) Add 1 – 2 inches of organic matter.

4) Add 1 – 2 inches of sandy loam.

5) Add 20 – 30 pounds of gypsum per 1000 square feet.

6) Add fertilizer.

7) Till the soil between the above steps.

Sure you can hire a professional to do the work but by doing the work yourself you will reap the pride of a job well done and gain confidence that will prepare you for your next gardening project.

Once you see the results of your labor in your garden or landscape you will realize you can do a professional job with just a little planning and preparation. Don’t forget the money you will save.